Dolpo is the largest territorial district in Nepal. It is certainly one of the most beautiful and splendid place. The exotic sites and natural sceneries lures people all over the world , thus making it a must visit destination. Dolpo has been captured beautifully on film by the renowned director Eric Valli in his movie “Caravan”.

Dolpo’s Phoksundo Lake is regarded as one of the most scenic and beautiful natural tourist destination in Nepal. Mirroring the snowy Kanjiroba massif, the turquoise lake waters look heavenly. No wonder this lake is regarded sacred by Buddhists and followers of Bon-po religion.

The Phoksundo Teahouse Trek is Dolpo’s one and only teahouse trek. This trek is fairly easy as no high passes are involved. The trek starts from Juphal, where the only airstrip in Dolpo is located. The trail passes through wonderful Himalayan forests and picturesque traditional villages. The rivers and waterfalls on the trail are some of Nepal’s most magnificent. In addition to natural beauty, the trekking area also is rich in wildlife. One may get to see some endangered species like the snow leopard, musk deer, blue sheep, great Tibetan sheep, Himalayan tahr etc. Within the Shey Phoksundo National Park lies our destination Phoksundo Lake.

This trek is less expensive and follows a shorter route. We will be staying in tea houses or lodges throughout the trek. We shall take our meals at tea-houses. The food will be simple and nutritious. Back packers can also do this trek. The company will provide a local guide. But in case you don’t need a guide, then the company will take out the trekking permit for you for a fee. We plan your trip with a high level of efficiency , so that you may have the most memorable experience.

Outline Itinerary

Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu
Day 02:Kathmandu to Nepalgunj/ flight
Day 03:Nepalgunj to Juphal/ (2475m) and Juphal to Dunai (2145m)/ 3 hrs Trek
Day 04:Dunai to Chhepka (2670m)/ 6-7 hrs trek
Day 05:Chhepka to Jharana Hotel/ 5-6 hrs Trek
Day 06:Jharana Hotel to Ringmo (3460m)/ 5-6 hrs Trek
Day 07:Explore around Phoksundo Lake
Day 08:Phoksundo Lake to Chhepka (2520m)/ 6-7 hrs trek
Day 09:Chhepka to Juphal
Day 10:Juphal to Nepalgunj and then take a connecting flight to Kathmandu
Day 11:Depart Kathmandu

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu

As you fly into Kathmandu, the views of snow-capped mountain peaks greet you. A representative and driver from our office will meet you at the airport and escort you to your hotel. The representative will help you check into your designated hotel. At the hotel you will be briefed about your daily activities.

Day 02: Kathmandu to Nepalgunj/ flight

In the morning you can stroll in the streets of Thamel while we arrange all your trekking documents (TIMS & National Park Permit) . Then you collect all the necessary documents from our representative and drive to the domestic section of Kathmandu airport. From Kathmandu we fly on any domestic carrier to Nepalgunj. Nepalgunj , a town in the western Terai , is very close to the Indian border and the Bardia Nationl Park. It is a major transport hub for western, mid-western and far-western regions of Nepal. Overnight at hotel or lodge.

Day 03: Nepalgunj to Juphal/ (2475m) and Juphal to Dunai (2145m)/ 3 hrs Trek

Today we take a 35 minutes long flight to Juphal- the trek starting point to Phoksundo Lake. As we begin the trek, the trail ascends southeast high above Thulo Bheri Valley followed by an hour long walk through maize fields to to reach the village of Kalagaunda. We trek by the southern bank of Bheri River and pass Roop Ghar with the water mill and finally reach the village of Dunai(2145m).Dunai is quite a big mountainous town with schools, health post, government offices, police station and tourist class lodges. We will stay overnight in one of the lodges in Dunai. Probably at Pala Guest House.

Day 04: Dunai to Chhepka (2670m)/ 6-7 hrs trek

Today we begin the trek descending down through the streets of Dunai Town to cross the bridge over Bheri River. Then we chase the northern bank of the river for an hour to reach Sulighat. Then we head north to reach Shey Phoksundo National Park Check Post. Beyond the checkpost, we gradually climb up along the rock strewn trail that lies above the serpentine Suli Ghad Khola. As the trail stretches higher through the series of hemp tree we arrive to Kageni. Further trekking through beautiful tropical forest dominated by walnut and maple trees, we begin to see the first glimpses of Tibetan culture. Savoring the views of fluttering prayer flags, floral and faunal biodiversity, cascading waterfalls and lush vegetation we arrive to the village of Shyanta 2520m. Almost ninety minutes of uphill trek from Shyanta along the narrow trail brings us to Chhepka 2670m. Overnight in a lodge at Chhepka.

Day 05: Chhepka to Jharana Hotel/ 5-6 hrs Trek

We rise early in the morning and after breakfast make our way towards Jharana hotel. The trail climbs through a forest of big cedars and on a winter settlement used by the people of Ringmo village. The route climbs steadily through open country to an elevation of 3370m. We get a close view of a spectacular 330-metre –high waterfall, the highest in Nepal and a faraway view of Phoksundo lake. We stop for the night at Jharana (waterfall) Hotel.

Day 06: Jharana Hotel to Ringmo (3460m)/ 5-6 hrs Trek

Today as we make our way to Ringmo, we make a steep descend through birch forests to the upper reaches of the Phoksundo khola. We cross a bridge and follow a trail north to the ranger station at Phoksundo Lake. We continue to the shores of the lake near the point where the Phoksundo khola(river) flows out of the lake. The final push through the Phoksundo River gully, we emerge to the yak filled meadows of Ringmo, a popular Bon Village in the region. Ringmo has few lodges/homestays, where we are going to settle down for the night.

Day 07: Explore around Phoksundo Lake

Today we explore the area around the Ringmo magnificent Phoksundo Lake. First, we explore around Ringmo Village and head to Tshowa (the lake-shore Bon Monastery). The Gompa nestling a ridge top above Phoksundo Lake was built about 900 years ago.Exploring this culturally rich Bon Monastery is fascinating experience. Then we drop down to Phoksundo Lake along steep-sided cliffs. The lake is famous for its magnificent turquoise color and spectacular scenery. Ringmo village, a typical Tibetan village, is scenic view from Phoksundo Lake. Many beautiful glaciers can be found near and above the lake area. There are many monasteries (Gompas )and Bon-po religious sites at the park and we spend our time visiting some of these. We also explore the wonderful natural sites and enjoy our nature tour.

Day 08: Phoksundo Lake to Chhepka (2520m)/ 6-7 hrs trek

After an enjoyable and insightful teahouse trek to Phoksundo Lake we trek along the retracing trail to Chhepka. We stay overnight at the hotel.

Day 09: Chhepka to Juphal

After the breakfast, we continue the trek along the retracing trail that brings us to Juphal. After 6-7 hrs of pleasant walk through culturally and naturally diverse trail we arrive to Juphal. Overnight in a lodge at Juphal.

Day 10: Juphal to Nepalgunj and then take a connecting flight to Kathmandu

Early morning, we walk to the airport in Juphal from where we fly to the airport in Nepalgunj. At Nepalgunj we board a plane that directly connects us to Kathmandu. On arriving Kathmandu, you will be transferred to your hotel. Rest of the time is free time.

Day 11: Depart Kathmandu

Today, we will escort you to Tribhuvan International Airport as per your flight schedule back home. We will see you off pleasantly. Have a safe flight back home.

An enthralling journey filled with remote trekking, high mountain passes, yak caravans in the remote lower Dolpo region

Lower Dolpo Trek offers an outstanding trekking experience in the remote western region of Nepal.  Lower Dolpo Trek was opened in 1982 for the trekkers.  The trek crosses three high passes of this region such as Kangmara La (5,115m), Numa La (5,159m) and Baga La (5,190m). Lower Dolpo is home to popular Shey Phoksundo National Park. Our trek leads us through the protected area and takes us to superb Phoksundo Lake with beautiful flora and fauna. It is situated in Karnali region of Nepal and requires special trekking permit from the immigration because of the restricted area. Dolpo region is a very dry and unproductive area. So, the daily life is very difficult but they were very humble and friendliness with their smiling faces. Population of Dolpo region is very low which is less than 5000.

Lower Dolpo Trek begins from Juphal and ends at Juphal. It is a moderately strenuous walk along the lower part of Dolpo. Shey Phoksundo Lake is the deepest lake of Nepal which is situated at the height of 3,611.5 m in this region. Since the route opened, it become very popular among the trekkers and this route is famous treks in the western Nepal. Beautiful lakes, ancient villages, people life style, Buddhist monasteries, Tibetan plateau and the traditional culture are the main attraction of the trek.

Due to its nearness to the Tibetan border, Dolpo people follows Tibetan Buddhism. Dolpo’s inhabitants still earn their livelihood by trading items like salt, cotton, barley and rice in Tibet. During the trek, we also come across traders walking with yaks laden with such items.

Please note that trek itinerary day to day is just guideline, it can be minimize as well as prolong as your wish. Trek can be done from March through May and September to December in Nepal according yours time frame.

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1300m/4264ft)

Upon our arrival in Kathmandu, our representative will pick us up from the airport and take you to your hotel. Welcome to Nepal Dinner with Local Cultural Show

Overnight in Kathmandu.

Included meals: Dinner

Day 02: Kathmandu: Sightseeing and Trek Preparation

Today after breakfast we start a guided tour to several of the most historical and spiritual attractions in Kathmandu. Some of these landmarks are considered World Heritage Sites including the historic Durbar Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupatinath, the famous ‘Monkey Temple’ (Swayambhunath) and Buddhist shrine (Bouddhanath), which is one of the largest stupas in the world. At noon, there will be a pre-trip discussion where we can meet our trek leader and other team members. Himalayan Glacier will brief us regarding our trek as well as provide us with an opportunity to ask any questions we may have regarding our upcoming adventure. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Included meals: Breakfast

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj: 1 hour

After our short excursion in Kathmandu, we take an hour-long flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, located in Western Nepal. Nepalgunj, a town near the Nepal-India border, is also the gateway to Simikot, Humla. The town itself is an interesting Terai town that showcases the diverse culture of Nepal. In Nepalgunj, we visit the local market, mini-zoo and nearby villages. Overnight in Nepalgunj.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 04: Fly from Nepalgunj to Jhupal (Dolpo) (2,320m/7,610ft) and trek to Dunai (2,850m/9,348ft): 45 mins flight, 2-3 hours trek

We fly to Jhupal after breakfast. The town is beautifully located over the Himalayan foothills, with views of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks to its north. Here, we meet our trekking staff and begin the adventure. We walk through terraced fields to the Bheri River and its narrow gorge. We continue walking to Dunai which is the administrative headquarter of the Dolpo region. We explore the small town in the evening and camp there for the night.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 05: Dunai to Tarakot (2,543m/8,341ft): 5-6 hours

After breakfast our trek continues along the southern bank of the Bheri River heading upstream on an easy trail. Along the way, we pass through several deep gorges, hanging bridges and isolated villages. Our trail also includes a tremendous gorge with pine trees and a path built about seven meters above the river. After walking for a while, we will be greeted by the colorful, terraced field of Tarakot, a small village that stands on a hillock to the south of the Bheri River. Overnight in Tarakot.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 06: Tarakot to Laini (3,160 m/10,365 ft): 6-7 hours

We walk alongside Tarap Chu river and cross it twice before reaching Sandul Gompa. The gompa lies at a juncture between Barbung Khola and Tarap Chu river. We continue walking on a trail that takes us through farm terraces and rural villages. After ascending and descending for a while, we finally reach Laini. Overnight in Laini.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 07: Laini to Nawarpani (3,545m/11,627 ft): 5-6 hours

We climb on a steep trail and walk along switchback above the Tarap River. The walk is quite exciting as the valley becomes a narrow gorge that in some places you can jump from one side to another. Several vigorous climbs and descents will take us to the banks of the Chyugur Khola, from where we reach Nawarpani. Overnight in Nawarpani.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 08: Nawarpani to Do Tarap (4,090m/13,415ft): 7-8 hours

We begin today’s trek by gradually ascending to Kamattarka at the confluence of the Tarap Chu and Lang Khola. We cross a narrow gorge and leave the tree line behind us and welcome wild rose and juniper bushes, typical of the dry inner Himalayan valleys. After walking for several more hours, we reach the village of Dho Tarap which is surrounded by an irregular stone wall. In this Valley both Bon Po and Chaiba religious sects reside together. Tarap is also inhabited by a few Tibetans and mostly Magars who have lived here for many generations. Overnight in Do Tarap.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 09: Rest Day at Do Tarap for acclimatization

The day off will assist with acclimatization and allow some bodily rest. We can spend the day visiting nearby monasteries. During today’s short walks, we also get a chance to get acquainted with the local culture. The Dolpo people wear homespun clothing that is sometimes dyed a maroon color and they favor Tibetan style somba or dhocha (boots with upturned toes) for foot wear. Both men and women often wear religious amulets and strings of coral, amber and turquoise. The people of the region are both Bon Po and Nyingmapa (Buddhist sects). Overnight in Do Tarap.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 10: Trek to Numa La Base Camp (4440m/14,563 ft): 6-7 hours walk

We trek towards the upper Tarap valley enjoying views of lush grasslands on both sides of the river which is unique to this part of the inner Dolpo. We walk alongside Tarap Chu river and take pleasure in the amazing views of the vast Tarap valley with its wide plains and high mountains. A few hours’ good walk takes us to the village of Tokyu which houses a Buddhist monastery of the Chiba sect. After exploring the monastery, we continue walking up the valley on a rough trail  before reaching the Numa La Base Camp. Overnight in Numa La Base Camp.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 11: Cross Numa La pass (5,190m/17,023ft), camp at Pelung Tang (4465m/14,645 ft): 6-7 hours

Today is going to be the toughest and one of the longest days of our trek.  After breakfast, we begin crossing the Numa La pass on a steep trail all the way up the top ridge of the pass. From the ridge we get incredible views of the barren mountains of Dolpo up to Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m).  After getting to the top of Numa La, we descend to camp at Pelung Tang.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 12: Cross Baga La pass (5,070m/16,630ft), trek to Dajok Tang (4,080m/13,382ft): 6 hours

After breakfast we begin our steep climb up to the top of Baga La pass. From here, we get fantastic views of the dry landscape and the distant snow-capped mountains including Mt. Kanjirowa.  We spend some time at the top of the pass taking pictures and generally enjoying the mesmerizing views. Next, we descend to Dajok Tang for an overnight stay.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 13: Dajok Tang to Ringmo (3,600m/11,808ft): 3-4 hours

We spend most of today’s trek on trails alongside beautiful pine forests and alpine vegetation. After trekking for a short while on an easy trail with only gradual highs and lows, we reach Ringmo Village. The village is a traditional Tibetan village of the Dolpo region. Overnight in Ringmo.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 14: Hike to Phoksundo Lake

Today we explore the great Phoksundo Lake and camp at its shores. We see yak caravans moving in and out of Ringmo mostly towards Tibetan borders on remote mountain trails. The scene is even depicted in a Hollywood movie ‘Caravan’ shot mostly in this location. On our way to the lake, we also tour a nearby monastery. Upon reaching the Phoksundo Lake, we can enjoy a relaxing walk on the serene lake’s shores. Overnight at Phoksundo.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 15: Phoksundo Lake to Shyanta (2520m/8265 ft): 5-6 hours walk

We trek downhill to Chepka. From Chepka the trail follows a massive overhanging rock. During our trek, we find many important medicinal minerals which are believed to cure almost anything in this area. The route then passes through villages, before climbing to Shyanta. Overnight in Shyanta.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 16: Shyanta to Jhupal

We march towards Jhupal via Sulighat on a trail surrounded by birch trees. From atop a ridge, we get the most spectacular views of the mountain above us and Jhupal Village below. Utmost caution is required while trekking along this trail. After reaching Jhupal, we can spend our afternoon exploring the busy market town or simply taking a rest. Overnight in Jhupal.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 17: Fly to Nepalgunj, fly to Kathmandu

We take the earliest flight from Jhupal to Nepalgunj. Upon reaching Nepalgunj, we return to Kathmandu on the next available flight. Upon our arrival in Kathmandu, we will be transferred to our hotel. There is nothing to do but trade emails with travel companions and organize the photos. To celebrate the successful completion of our journey, we will have a farewell dinner hosted by Himalayan Glacier. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Included meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Day 18: Final departure

Our adventure in Nepal comes to an end today!  Our representative will take us to the airport approximately 3 hours before the scheduled flight.

Included meals: Breakfast

If you need more detail of this trip, please contact me at anil.blon@gmail.com or you can call me at 00977 98510 24915. I will be more than happy to assist any kind of  your trip to Nepal ( accommodations, tours, trek, domestic tickets, transportation, etc) 

Trekking in Dolpa is a unique experience. The trails pass through beautiful landscapes, thick pine forests and along wild rivers all the while with spectacular views of beautiful snow-capped mountains. The highlight of the trek is the mesmerizing deep-blue and emerald hues of the deepest lake in Nepal, Phoksundo Lake. This is truly one of the most beautiful natural tourist destinations in Nepal.

If time allows it’s worth spending a day or two admiring the views and exploring the lake and surrounding areas. Don’t miss Tshowa monastery on the east bank of Phoksundo Lake where worship still takes place.

On the southern bank lies the village of Ringmo where you can get a rare close look into traditional Bonpo culture. The ideal trekking season is spring and autumn. It’s recommended to check in with a local travel agency to see if lodges are open before setting off in the winter months.

 Trek Facts of Phoksundo Lake Trek

Highlights of the trek

• Walk through the stunning landscapes of the Trans Himalayan mountains
• Admire the incomparable beauty of the holy Phoksundo Lake, with its enchanting blue and emerald colors
• Encounter authentic Tibetan Buddhism and Bonpo culture
• Sleep in authentic, small Buddhist villages
• Have encounters with villagers, who are direct descendents of the Tibetans
• Chance to see bluesheep, musk deer and monkeys
• Walk the famous Demon Trail from the movie Himalaya from Eric Vallie
• See Nepal’s highest waterfall, the Suligad Waterfall, of 167 meters high

Below you can find a day-by-day description of this route. Walking times are of course a guideline and differ from person to person. The times mentioned, are excluding breaks.

 Day 1 Flight Kathmandu-Nepalgunj.

To get to Dolpa, generally you have to fly to Nepalgunj first. Nepalgunj is a steaming hot city in South Western Nepal, in the lowlands of Terai, close to the Indian border, which is just 8 km away. Culturally the area more resemble India than upland Nepal. Take a cycle rikshaw for a ride in town. You pass the hustle and bustle of the bazaar and see horse carts full of colorful people going to or coming from the Indian border. The Bageshowri temple is one of Nepal’s most important Hindu temples and is worth a visit as well.

 Day 2 Flight Nepalgunj-Juphal (2475 m), walk to Chhepka (2838 m) 6 hrs

It’s just a 35 minutes flight to Juphal over steep mountain ridges with beautiful views of snowcapped mountains. Juphal airport is just a gravel airstrip amidst the mountains, which guarantees a spectacular landing. Stepping out of the plane, you enter in a completely different world. From a hot city in the plains, you arrive in a small mountain village, situated in the midst of the Himalaya, breathing in crispy cold air.

From Juphal you walk down over a small path among fields with wheat and vegetables to the Thuli Bheri River, which you’ll follow after reaching it. A big iron suspension bridge, the Dhim Bridge (99 m long) forms the entrance to the Shey Phoksundo National Park (SPNP). SPNP is Nepal’s largest National Park, established in 1984, with an area of 3,555 km². It aims to conserve the Trans-Himalayan ecosystem and the Tibetan type of flora and fauna. In 1998, and area of 1,349 km² surrounding the park was declared as buffer zone, which is jointly managed by the park and local communities. (You have to pay 1000 NPR entrance fee, except persons from SAARC countries, who pay 100 NPR). Next to the entrance is the small village of Suligat, where you could stop for a tea.

The path follows the Suli Khola River now. Behind you, you can see a part of the Dhaulagiri Range. You pass small villages along the way, like Kageni (2413 m) and Sangta (2520 m), where you could stop for a tea, lunch or stay for the night. In Sangta honey is cultivated. It’s a great place for a tea with honey! While sipping your tea, you can see the bees going in and out the beehives, made from tree trunks. Just before Sangta you enter the forest. It’s a beautiful walk, alongside the wild flowing river, which at some parts is beautiful emerald green. The path is surrounded by pine trees, like spruce, fir, juniper and cypress and passes small bamboo forests and walnut trees. At the other side of the river, the high rocky slope goes up steeply and is dotted with pine trees as well. At the end of the day you reach Chhepka, a small village, surrounded by fields of millet and wheat.

Chhepka has three hotels, La Lee Gurans Hotel and Lodge, Hotel Jharana and Yak Hotel and Lodge. Yak Hotel has a campsite as well.

Day 3  Chhepka (2838 m) to Chunuwar/Amchi Hospital (3110 m) 6 hrs

The path goes through beautiful pine forests, with some bushes, birches and other broadleaf trees mixed in as well. It’s following the river all the time and most of it is Nepali flat: sometimes going up and sometimes going down, with a couple of steeper climbs and descents. At some parts the valley gets very narrow and the impressive steep rocks are towering high above you on both sides. On the way you encounter local people with their mules or dzopas (crossbreed between yak and cow) loaded with things to sell. After about four hours you pass the village of Rechi, where there is a camping spot. At the other side of the bridge, there is a small teashop as well.

The path continues at the other side of the bridge. It’s two hours more to Chunuwar. Close to Chunuwar you can find the Amchi Hospital. This is a very interesting place and worth a visit. In fact it is more a clinic, which is well frequented by local people. An Amchi is a doctor who is educated in traditional Tibetan medicine, and always is a lama (monk) as well. Tibetan medicine has a tradition of thousands of years and uses techniques as pulse analysis and urine analysis for diagnosis. For treatment, medicines made of herbs and minerals are used, together with physical therapies, like Tibetan acupuncture. In the Amchi Hospital you can see a collection of herbs and minerals used to cure people. Most Dolpa people prefer to visit the Amchi over a regular doctor when they are ill. A donation is highly welcomed to keep this tradition living.

Next to the Amchi Hospital is a guesthouse with a campsite, Jharana Hotel

Day 4  Chunuwar/Amchi Hospital (3110 m) to Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m) 3 hrs

It’s a short hike today to Ringmo and the Phoksundo Lake. It includes a long and sometimes steep climb of about 2 hours.  Just before the top, you can see Nepal’s highest waterfall, a spectacular waterfall of 167 meters high, the Phoksundo Waterfall (also called Suligad Waterfall). From the pass you have your first view of the Phoksundo Lake. The path is going down till it gets close to the river, which you follow until you reach Ringmo.

Ringmo is a charming village. People practice the Bonpo religion here. Bonpo is related to Buddhism, but it is a lot older than Buddhism and goes back thousands of years. The religion was founded more than 18,000 years ago by Buddha Tonpa Shenrab Miwo. It is believed that Dolpa used to be the centre of the Bon kingdom, called Zhang Zhung, a big and powerful kingdom in present Western and Northwestern Tibet and surroundings,  as in Dolpa you can still find a big concentration of Bonpo practioners. In the 7th Century Zhang Zhung was defeated by the Buddhist kingdom of Tibet, and Bonpo disappeared almost completely. However many Bon traditions were absorbed into Tibetan culture.

It has more animistic aspects than Buddhism. For outsiders it is difficult to see the difference between Bonpo and Buddhism, but one small but important detail is that you have to cross their shrines, like mani walls (low walls with loose stones with Buddhist mantra’s carved on it) and chortens anti clockwise, while according to Buddhist custom, you pass them clockwise.

The women wear dark or checked dresses with colorful aprons made from yak wool. You see fewer men in the typical dress, which is a long coat, from which they let one sleeve hanging down. Strolling around the village, you might see women weaving. In Ringmo women make very nice woven products, like belts, bags, shawls and blankets. Most items are made from cotton, but they also sell products made from yak wool. There are a few shops where you can buy these. These shops serve as a general shop as well, and you can fill up your stocks of biscuits for the rest of the trek.

Ringmo lies at the shore of the holy Phoksundo Lake. This lake is of a stunning beauty. It has an enchanting deep blue color and is emerald green close to the shore. The water is crystal clear, with no aquatic life in it. Steep cliffs and snowcapped mountains surround the lake. The colors change a bit during the day; you just won’t get enough of simply looking at it. At the shore of the lake, there is a wonderful campsite.

If you want, you can walk a part of the famous Demons Trail from the movie Himalaya (Caravan) of Eric Valli. This is a beautiful movie about the life of people in Dolpa, who bring their yaks over difficult passes bearing salt from Tibet to trade with grain from the lowlands. In the movie, this trail is used during the salt caravan and one of the yaks falls in the lake here. It’s a spectacular trail, going high above the lake. At some parts it gets very narrow due to landslides, so watch your steps.

At the other shore, there is a beautiful Bonpo Monastery which you can visit. In the monastery you can observe a statue of Tonpa Shenrab Miwo, the founder of Bonpo religion, who lived thousands of years ago. Ringmo has a few guesthouses:  Sherpa Hotel and Lodge, Trekkers Lodge, Himalaya Hotel, Shey Shikhar Hotel and Shey Phoksundo Hotel. Besides, you can camp at the shores of Phoksundo Lake.

Day 5  Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m) to Chunuwar (3110 m) 2 hrs

As the Phoksundo Lake is such a beautiful place, an extra free morning here is recommended.

In the afternoon you leave back to Chunuwar. Leaving Ringmo, the path is rather flat at first, but soon climbs steeply up the hill. Soon you will see the river far below you. The climb takes about half an hour. At the top you have a beautiful last view of the Phoksundo Lake. And then it is going down, down and more down. Pretty steep at the beginning but later Nepali flat again till you reach Chunuwar.

Day 6  Chunuwar (3110 m) to Sangta (2520 m) or Kageni (2413 m) 6-7 hrs

The path descends gradually, going almost entirely through beautiful pine forests, with some bushes, birches and other broad leaved trees mixed in. It’s about 1 ½ hours to Rechi.

After Rechi, the trail is Nepali flat, to Chhepka (3 ½ hrs) going up and down, with a couple of steeper climbs and descends, following the river all the time. You notice that you are descending; not only by the increasing temperature, but also by the difference in vegetation. You’ll see bamboo again for example, and big walnut trees. From Chhepka it’s an hour more to Sangta, and another hour to Kageni. After Sangta you leave the forest, and suddenly you walk through a bit dry landscape.

In  Sangta there is one gueshouse with a campsite: Swagat Hotel.

In Kageni there is 1 guesthouse (plus a campsite will be built soon), Hima Chamakuni Hotel and 1 campsite, Raju Hotel.

Day 7  Sangta (2421 m) or Kageni (2413 m) to Dunai, 3-4 hrs or Juphal (2475 m) 4-5 hrs

It’s a pleasant walk in a rocky landscape till the checkpost of the Shey Phoksundo National Park (SPNP). After the checkpost you can choose to go left to Dunai or cross the big iron suspension bridge (the Dhim Bridge) and go west to Juphal. It’s about 45 minutes to Dunai,  the headquarters of Dolpa District. It’s a large village, of about 2,500 people, more or less half Hindu and half Buddhist. Up the hill, there is a Buddhist monastery, the Dolpa Kendriya Gompa, which is worth a visit. It is situated at the slope at the other site of the river, overlooking Dunai. The monastery belongs to the Nyingmapa lineage, the oldest Buddhism linege and was  built in 1998. There is only one monk/lama. If he is there, he will be happy to open the monastery for you and show you around. Inside the gompa you can observe a beautiful statue of Sakyamuni Buddha (Gautama Buddha), the Kengyur (the holy scriptures of Buddhism) and big thankas (Buddhist paintings on cotton). There is a small daily puja (prayer ceremony) from 6-7 am and from 6-7 pm.

A bit further away from Dunai, at the same slope, you can find the Dolpo Bon School and Hostel. Besides the normal teachings that children receive at common schools, the Bon School educates children in the Bonpo religion, Tibetan culture and Tibetan language. The school offers education to poor and orphaned children in the district from Bonpo background. As the children come from different, far away villages, there is a hostal as well. Currently there are 26 children in the school, divided into 5 different classes. Unfortunately at present the school faces a lack of funds, due to which the children receive classes in a big tent. They are hoping for new funds to build a descent school building.

At regular schools, Tibetan language is not given, nor Tibetan culture and Bon religion. The school therefore helps to maintain an millennium old culture. The school and hostal make a very interesting visit which gives you a chance to learn more about Bonpo. One of the teachers will be happy to show you around and give you explanations about the Bonpo religion and culture. Besides the Hostal, there is a beautiful stupa with holds a century old footprint of an important lama. A Bonpo gompa is being built here as well.

In Dunai there is a guesthouse with a campsite: The Bluesheep Inn. Besides there are a few hotels, like Hotel Ghorka Palace and Lodge and Pala Guesthouse.

From the bridge, it’s about 2½ – 3 hours to Juphal. The first part goes over a large path, passing through the small village of Kalagaonda. Then you leave the main road and walk over a small path, through fields of barley and wheat, with walnut, peach and apricot trees. It’s a pretty steep climb to reach Juphal. Juphal is a large village with a small bazaar where it is nice to spend some time looking around.

In Juphal there is a guesthouse with a campsite: Hotel Mt Putha. Besides, there is a small guesthouse, Hotel Jharana

Day 8   Flight Juphal-Nepalgunj-Kathmandu

Early in the morning you fly to Nepalgunj. Especially the first part of the flight through the mountain valleys is spectacular. Later in the day, you fly back to Kathmandu.